Thermador Appliance Repair in Los Angeles and Orange County

Thermador dishwashers

The most common call is water left standing in the tub at the end of a cycle. On a Thermador dishwasher that is usually the drain side: the filter at the bottom of the tub, the drain hose kinked behind the cabinet, or a drain pump that has picked up a piece of glass or a fruit sticker. The machine will normally say so with a code before it stops.

Thermador publishes what its dishwasher codes mean, and they are specific enough to narrow the job before a technician opens anything:

Dishwasher codes as published by Thermador Customer Care, checked 1 September 2026.

Two of these are worth a look before you call. On E15 the base of the machine has water in it, and the machine will keep pumping until the cause is found, so turn it off at the wall. On E23, the filter and the pump cover at the bottom of the tub come out by hand, and a surprising number of call-outs end there.

Thermador ranges and rangetops

On gas ranges the calls split in two. Either a burner will not light or keeps clicking after it lights, which is usually the igniter, the burner cap sitting crooked, or moisture in the burner head after a spill or a cleaning. Or the oven side heats unevenly and slowly, which is a different fault entirely and lives in the igniter, the sensor or the element.

The star burner and the ExtraLow settings are the parts owners notice first when something is wrong: a simmer that will not hold low, or a burner that runs high whatever the knob says. That is worth describing exactly when you book, because it points at the valve rather than the ignition.

Thermador does not publish fault codes for its ranges and ovens the way it does for dishwashers. If a code is on the display, photograph it and send it to us, and we will look it up against the service documentation for your model rather than guess.

Thermador cooktops

On induction, the two frequent faults are a zone that cuts out under load and a cooktop that will not respond to the touch controls. A zone cutting out is often heat: the electronics under the glass have their own cooling, and when the vent path under the counter is blocked the cooktop protects itself. Unresponsive controls are usually water or grease on the glass, and worth wiping dry before anything else.

On gas cooktops the same rules apply as on the rangetops above: caps seated properly, ports clear, igniters dry. A cooktop that clicks continuously with the burners off is telling you a switch is wet or stuck, not that it needs a new control board.

Thermador refrigerators and Freedom columns

Built-in Thermador refrigeration is where the diagnosis matters most, because a column is fixed into the cabinetry and pulling it out is a job in itself. A cabinet that is warmer than it should be, frost on the back wall, or an ice maker that has stopped are all separate faults with separate causes: airflow, a defrost circuit, a door seal that no longer closes, or the water line.

A door alarm that goes off when the door is shut, and lights that stay on, are usually a switch rather than a cooling fault. Tell us which of these it is when you book and we bring the right parts to the first visit.

Thermador ovens, wall ovens and steam ovens

No heat at all is the call we get most, and on a wall oven it is worth checking the obvious first: the oven is not in Sabbath mode, the demo or showroom mode is off, and the clock is set. Ovens shipped from a showroom floor sometimes arrive with demo mode still on, and they behave exactly like an oven with a dead element.

Uneven browning, a self-clean cycle that will not start, or a door that stays locked after cleaning are the other three. The locked door after a self-clean is normal until the cavity cools; if it is still locked hours later, the latch motor or its switch is the usual cause.

Thermador hoods and microwaves

On ventilation, weak extraction is more often the duct and the filters than the blower. Baffle filters that have not been washed, or a blower wheel loaded with grease, cost nothing to check and account for a good share of the calls. A hood that runs but trips its breaker is a different matter and should not be run again until it is looked at.

On microwaves, a unit that runs but does not heat, sparking inside the cavity, or a door that does not latch cleanly are all reasons to stop using it. Microwave repairs involve a capacitor that holds a charge with the power off, which is why this is not a do-it-yourself appliance.